Kodachadri – Agumbe ; Following the Pilgrims

                          

                The original plot was Pramod’s, and he had a hidden agenda. Pramod is a pious man – of course a nature enthuse too - and a frequent visitor of Kollur Mookambika. We had earlier discussions on the rain forests of Agumbe, and he succeeded in presenting his regular pilgrimage as a pleasure cum adventure trip to Agumbe and surroundings, before us. He could trap six fools including me, playing the Agumbe card. 

                We met at evenings for the planning, and at the second day itself, I could sense the hidden agenda, as Pramod insisted on Sringeri, another place of pilgrimage, vaguely stating that it’s near Agumbe. I decided to play the fool, as I had plans on Kodachadri hills close to Kollur, and of course Agumbe. Our initial line went like this; leave for Mangalore by train on 24^th of Feb. Hire a cab from there, move to Kollur and then trek to Kodachadri for the night stay. Second day : Trek back to Kollur and reach Agumbe after darsan. Third day : Full day trek to Narasimha Parvatha and to reach Sringeri by evening, and then to return back to Agumbe, after darsan. Fourth day : Agumbe wandering till noon and return to Mangalore, to catch the night train to Trivandrum.

            I tried my best, to squeeze in, either Saravathi valley trek near Jog Falls or Kudremukh peak trek, Chikmagalur, but failed for time constrains, imposed by crooked planer. Still I did some research on these places, as I knew Pramod would not object any last minute change, if Kollur and Sringeri were spared. 

                    Collected all useful contact numbers, booked all rail tickets and accommodations wherever necessary-- and our fools got wiser one by one. They dropped in a regular manner- one per day, and finally, two days prior to our journey, only the wise planner and the smart mender remained. Showering abuse on the traitors, we boldly decided to hold on. Pramod went on for a last minute catch, and hooked Sreekumar. Sreekumar is a 70% pilgrim, 20% tourist and the remaining 10% some thing else. But he was capable of swapping the interest levels, as situation demanded, and thus could cop with us. For instance, he turns a 100% monster, if not fed in time. Plans shattered, bookings canceled partially, we boarded Maveli Express to Mangalore, by 7.30 PM on 24^th Feb, deciding to take it on, as it comes.

                       Reached Mangalore Central railway station by 9 AM on 25^th. A bus bound for Kollur was ready outside the station and we boarded it. We had dropped plans to hire a cab so as to curtail the expenses, as there weren’t many to share. This bus had its usual plight and reached Kollur by 1.30 PM, and it was almost clear that we may not reach Kodachadri before dusk, if we attempted a trek. Rented a room at Trivikrama lodge, just opposite to the temple entrance. The room was neat and spacious for three of us, at a remarkably low rent of Rs. 150 per day. 

          Decided to hire a Jeep to Kodachadri and to return to Kollur by night. Had rotten chappathies for lunch and went to the jeep stand. They demanded Rs.1400 for the trip – Rs. 175 each if there are 8 travellers. We waited a while and could gather around 4 more, and started off by 3.00 PM. Drove along the Shimoga bound road, through Mookambika Wild life sanctuary and took a right deaviation, just after Nittur. At Kattinahole deviated right to the mud road.

          The next 45 minutes, put the 4WD on test, and of course our spine. The bumpy ride ended at Kodachadri shrine by 4.30 PM.

                The Sarvajna Peedha, where Sankaracharya performed meditation is atop the hillock and can be reached only by foot. There are two tracks to the top, just after the shrine. The one to the right is steeper and the left one is of lower gradient.

Srekumaracharya Enlightened

         We opted for the steeper one for the up climb. Went past the Ganapathi Guha and completed the climb in half an hour.              Once atop one would never wish to return. The vast expanse of Linganamakki reservoir, on river Saravathi, falls to the north.                    This reservoir had killed the Jog falls, as it is just above the falls. The jog falls remains a dry cliff, most part of the year, except during heavy monsoon shower, while the shutters are opened. This may be the fate of the beautiful Athirappillli falls near Chalakudi, once the Athirappilli power project is sanctioned, I fear. The Chakra reservoir resembled a pond towards the east.          The thick woods below the cliffs appeared darker in the faint light of the setting sun. 

                       The terrain in this region of the Western Ghats is deprived of the common fauna – the elephant. The west horizon went reddish, and we dropped our plan to move down to the Chithramoola Guha on the South.                Chose the less steep path for the return, and walked slowly to reach the shrine below, by around 6.30.                Left the place just after sunset, to reach back Kollur, by around 8 at night.                   I opted for biscuits and fruits, sensing the danger; but Sreekumar went ahead for yet another experiment. Beware - Hotels around the temple are sure to ruin your health. If you have own vehicle, you may move to Jadkal junction, just 8 kms from Kollur, towards Kundapura, to find small hotels that cater to the villagers, and not to the tourist stuff. I got this information from a Jadkal native, I got acquainted the next day, in a bus journey. We were to leave for Agumbe the next day, but there were no direct buses to Agumbe, from Kollur. On enquiry at the bus stand, we were informed that a bus leaves for Dharmasthala at 6.45 AM, which passes through Hebri, at the foothills of Agumbe. We have to pay a visit to the temple and catch this early morning bus. Went to bed early.

         Sreekumar woke me up by 3.45 AM, and we were at the temple gates by 4.30.                     

                      Apart from darsan, pilgrims had poojas to offer, and some how we could make it to the bus stand in time. Boarded the bus, which started 10 minutes late. Though we were the lone passengers at the start, the bus got half filled at Jadkal. Shibu , who got into the bus from Jadkal, was a migrated farmer from Kottayam, and soon we initiated a chat. He had rubber, coconut and arecanut plantations, at Muthoor, near Jadkal, and had recently expanded by adding another 15 acres of land at Haladi, enroute Hebri. At Nembu junction, our bus took a left deviation while the right goes to Kundapura on NH 17. Shibu was happy in the absence of elephants in their forest, in a farmer’s interest. 

                       Went past Ampar and reached Haladi, where Shibu got down. We moved on via Albadi and reached Hebri by 9.15 AM. Hebri is a small town. Albadi is directly connected to Agumbe via Someswara and if we had own vehicle, we could have bypassed Hebri. A tea shop opposite to the bus stop offered a variety, and we tasted all they had, for a meager 61 bucks. Only mini buses ply to Agumbe, and we got into one, that goes to Shimoga via Agumbe. Went past Someswara village, and entered the Ghat section. The driver, of course a regular guy, negotiated the hair pin curves with such an ease, that my kid does the midtown madness. We had to cling on to the window rails many a time, but our fellow passengers were least bothered. Drove into Agumbe bus stand by 10.30 AM.

                 Agumbe is a small villge, tucked in the rain forest , famed for the highest rain fall in South India. And, for the same reason it’s the home for King Cobra, in the Western Ghats. This isolated village was brought to lime light by the mid eighty DD serial ‘Malgudi Days’. We had booked a double room at ‘Mallya Residency’, a small hotel run by Sudheendra Mallya, just opposite to the bus stand. Met Mallya at his provision store in the ground floor, and he provided his Maruthi 800 with his driver Ganesh, a nice young chap, for our wander. We drove towards Shimoga and took a right turn at Guddegere to enter a village road, which further turned to a hilly track, that lead us to Kundadri hills. There’s a Jain temple atop with a green pool aside.          Ganesh had carried food for the fish in the pond, and he went on feeding them, while we roamed around.               We could spot Agumbe village on one side and the Varahi reservoir on the other side.                    Spent a while enjoying the breeze, and descended, went further along the village road, to join Agumbe – Sringeri road at Bidargode and later took a right turn, for Sirumane falls. On the way we could have glimpses of Narasimha Parvatha peak. 

Oh! I forgot to mention that we had already dropped Narasimha Parvatha trek, but included Kudremukh trek – the more difficult and testing one – and we have to leave early morning tomorrow, for the same.

Soon we reached Sirumane Falls and we were the lone people there.                Surprisingly the fall was still live, even in the peak of summer, and the water was clear as tear. Got under the falls, and felt it cold even at noon.                  We owned the whole fall. It was a nice massage, and once out of it, all the stuff that we had gulped from Hebri, had vanished.                Drove to Bidargode via Kigge, aong the other side of Narasimha Parvatha. – Kigge is the place where Narasimha Parvatha trek ends. Ganesh stopped at a small hotel at Bidargode, and to my delight, they had fish delicacies too. Ate to content and left for Jogi Gundi, falls close to Agumbe town. Had to walk a little through the thick jungle and it wasn’t worth.                 The falls had almost dried up and a small stream was feeding the pond below. Jumped into the pool and aquatics by Sreekumar followed.                  Walked back, got to the vehicle, drove to the town and then to Agumbe Rainforest Research Station (ARRS). There we met a volunteer by name Vipul, and had an interesting chat on their activities.               They had rescued and relocated hundreds of King cobras and had radio chipped 5 among them. Among the 5 three are still alive, and they regularly track them, as part of research they carry out over there. They even provide accommodation, for those with their eye. If interested, here’s the link – www. arrs.agumbe.com

Paid a short visit to Doddamane (The Big house), where Malgudi Days was shot. The present owner of the house, Kasthurakka, was a friendly lady, and she welcomed us.                    It was an old fashioned building and I struggled to link the views to the good old memories. Sreekumar hadn’t even heard about Malgudi Days, and was all the while wondering, why we should peep into some one’s residence. And the poor guy is still being tortured in friend’s circles.Thanked Kasthurakka and went down the Ghat to the sunset point.                  The place was crowded, and we left soon. Got back to the Mallya’s and settled the bill, as we had to leave for Kudremukh, at least by 5 in the morning.             He charged Rs.350 for the room and Rs.1100 as car rent for the day. He had also agreed to drop us at Kudremukh, early morning, for Rs.6 per Km. Ganesh agreed to be back by 5 AM, and left.

That night, after food at a local tea shop, we went for a long walk along the village roads. We were all alone in the darkness. Thoughts sprouted – Who had a hidden agenda – Was it Pramod or I – And who follow whom – Are the pilgrims following the traveller???????????

Of course we will visit Sringeri, early morning tomorrow......it falls on our route to Kudremukh.

Click on the stars to rate my blog

Poomparai : The Mist And The Misery

Poomparai – Kukkal ;

 

                On Dec 25^th 2008 we were all set for this journey and dropped it in the last minute, due to some official inconvenience Dinesh had. Nearly a year later, on Dec 19^th 2009, while I was delivering a lecture at Calicut, my mobile rang and it was Dinesh. An online enquiry – ‘shall we make it this time’ – and I went busy planning by the end of the day. Just 6 days left and we were all engaged in many ways. After some sort of mobile conferencing, Sinesh also agreed to be in.

Thus in the fine morning of 25^th Dec 2009, I and my family knocked at Dinesh’s door, by around 9 AM. We, in our WagonR, joined Sinesh and family, in their Paleo, at Kilimanoor, along MC road, 32 km from Trivandrum, by around 10 AM. Took the picturesque Thenmala – Aryankavu – Chenkotta route and stopped at Rajapalayam for lunch, by 1.30 PM.

                           A word about our destination – Poompara, Kukkal and Mannavanur are villages on the other side of the Kodai forest range, and the nearest among them, Poomparai is about 30 kms from Kodaikanal town. The only place of stay or hotel or resort or home stay accomodation, at Poompara, I could locate was ‘Club India Resorts’ aka ‘Wilusa Holiday Home’ and it turned out to be the worst I had ever experienced. I had contacted them earlier and ensured cottages. Normal access to this place is possible only via Kodai, or else you have to go for the adventurous, non existent, track through Kadavari – We had made this once, as detailed in an earlier post.

       This time our plan was to move up to Madurai and then to deviate to Batlagundu – Kodai, regular route. A small chat with a pick up driver at Rajapalayam ended in the information of another route to Batlagundu, with out touching Madurai. We also derived another opinion from the waiter at the hotel, that this road is narrow and less travelled and hence to go for the regular route. We chose the odd one. 

                    Proceeded towards Madurai and took a left turn from Kalluppatti. The road was neither that narrow nor in bad condition. Passed through the typical TN villages of Perayur, Usilampetti and reached Batlagundu, by 3.30 PM. I guess, we had saved 35 – 40 kms, by taking this alternate route. Had tea and towards Theni, to have a right deviation after about 10 kms, entering the Kodai Ghat road. We drove leisurely enjoying the panorama, unaware of the danger ahead, once we left Kodai. Reached Kodai town by 6.30 PM. Had some local purchase and headed to Poomparai soon. Left civilization within 4 to 5 kms, and were in the deserted track, amidst the woods. 

              Till 7.15 PM it was all fine and suddenly mist spread, reducing the visibility to almost nothing. Such a scenario was unexpected, and our vehicles didn’t have fog lamps either. Rang up the resort guys – by gods grace we were under mobile coverage – and they asked us to move along, until we reach a fork turn and then to take the Mannavannur lead. They also warned us about the mist, and asked us to be cautious. My WagonR was leading the trail and occasionally I had to stop the vehicle and walk ahead, to find which the road was. 

             Some how reached the fork junction but took the wrong lead which ends at Poompara village. To our luck we could spot three villagers who were walking along the track and they confirmed that we are on the wrong path. Now we are to have a U turn, but from Where and How….. Sinesh got out from his vehicle and with his help, I could some how manage. And it was my turn to help him. 

               Got back to the right track in 15 minutes, but the mist condition worsened. We could do nothing but stop the vehicles in the midst of nowhere. Efforts to contact the resort people went futile and the situation was embarrassing. I wandered around with my mobile and luckily could establish a week connection. I could just make it out that the resort people were asking us to stay where we were, so that they could sent a search mission. Thus we hapless, stranded people chilled it out there, waiting for those ‘avatars’. A faint grunt of an engine brought us back to life and soon a Bolero from the resort appeared before us. It of course had a fog light, and we happily followed it to the resort.

          Within a while we were at the resort and the impression so far was fine, but was not to last for long. The guy who lead us to our cottage – they call him ‘Chef’ – wasn’t even aware that the cottages didn’t even have a light at the porch. In our torch light, we found this man running around for a bulb and once he got it, he was struggling to fit it in the broken holder. Some how he managed and the door was opened to the living room, which was stinging. The building hasn’t seen a clean up, once built, it seems. The living room had a sofa and two chairs which were dump and dirty like anything. Each cottage had two bed rooms and there we found cigarette ash, match sticks and cigarette boxes thrown all around. The carpet was torn to the extent that it was just patches on the floor. 

               Our hearts fell as we had plans to stay at this place for two days. Had a short discussion and decided to stay at this rotten place, just for the night, as we had no other options, and leave for Kodai the next day. And to the positive side, the night was cold and we were tired after the long drive.

             Early morning the next day, I and Sinesh drove back to Kodai, to book our night stay. The track which presented the nightmare, now wore a different look.               It was as if we were floating over clouds. The Poomparai village, below the track was just out of sleep.                     The green farms and the hillside dwellings presented a panorama that I dared to roll down the window screen even in that freezing breeze.                      Reached Kodai in an hour to find the place flooded with visitors, as those to Ooty were also diverted to this place, due to some land slide along the Ooty route. Ended up with a three bed cottage for Rs.2500 and returned to the resort along the same path.

Got ready to explore the countryside, by 10 AM and found my newly bought Nokia 5800 touch phone, out of charge. Changed the SIM with my spare mobile, kept the new one in charge and set out for Mannavanur. It’s a tiny village which had the Govt. run, sheep and rabbit farm, and that was our attraction. Dinesh, being a Forest Range Officer, could impress the officer in charge, and he permitted us in, on foot. The farm was a vast spread, with sprawling meadows all around, bordered by thick forest canopy.                  The beautiful lake at the distant valley added to its charm. We could spot herds of sheep gracing over distant meadows.          Another herd was just leaving for the meadows.             The man in charge of the rabbit farm was very helpful and he was kind enough to bring them out of their cages, for our kids to fondle.             This session was also informative on the different species, they had over there. The kids, let freed on such vast natural greenery, were excited and they ran around, keeping us watching for a while.

                On the return path to Poomparai, took a left deviation, after about 8 km, to hit the track that leads to Kukkal. The road went smooth amidst thick woods and we drove slowly, with occasional stops. As we were close to the Kukkal Lake, there was another mist attack; similar to the one we had last night. This time there were no worries, as it was mid day, and we got out of the vehicles to dare it.         Soon it closed on us and we people were almost blind.                Kids yelled and we simply waited for it to subside. Gradually it went thinner and we drove slowly up to the lake

        Spent some time near the Kukkal Lake and then drove further up to the village.                The village is about 10 kms from the deviation, we had from the Poomparai track. Kukkal is an agricultural village, famous for its carrots and potatoes.        We bought sacks of these farm fresh products for a cost, and ate as much, free of cost.             The inhabitant farmers of this beautifull hillside village, were so pleasing and informative. The Kukkal caves, a natural formation, and the Kukkal peak are the nearby attractions. But both demanded a bit of moderate to difficult trekking, and we postponed it to the next trip without ladies and kids.

                  Returned to the resort by around 3.30 PM. And as you would expect, the mobile phone, which I had kept on charge, had disappeared. The resort people just washed their hands off, arguing that the cottage had only one key, and that was with us. By then, to add to our woes, one among us developed a serious health problem, and we had to just pack up and hurry to Kodaikanal, to get him treated. We paid what they asked – I remember it was Rs.6200 for three, so called bed rooms, and the worst ever food, we six people and kids had – forgot the mobile issue, and dashed to the nearest town, Kodai. Later that night, his condition worsened, and we had to transfer him to Madurai,in an ambulance, for better facilities. I left my WagonR at Kodaikanal and accompanied in the ambulance. 

          I would never forget in my life, that midnight journey, in a howling ambulance, along the misty hairpins, at lightning speed, with a heavy heavy heart. The next day, ladies and kids were sent back home and I opted to stay at Madurai. Got back my car from Kodai, and after three days in hospital, got back to Trivandrum on 29^th by 10 PM.

              At the end of mist and miseries, who care a phone, who care the trip; we care our friend. Completely recovered and back at job, ever energetic, that man remains a mystery after the mist……………


 

Click on the stars to rate my blog

Kolukkumalai : Tea so High and Grape so Dark

Kolukkumalai – Kambam
 

             This was in the draft section for long, and the trip was actually a part of another one which happened on 8^th August 2009. We were at Munnar Govt.Guest house, one fine after noon, planning how to spend the hours left. Kolukkumalai was the decision and we started off by half past two. Drove to Chinnakanal and took a left deviation for Sooryanelli village. At Sooryanelli had discussions with the Jeepwalas and finally chose Mr.Kishore, who agreed to carry us for Rs.550. Left our vehicle by the wayside and boarded Kishore’s four wheel drive. 

             Kolukkumalai is known to be the highest place in the world to have active tea plantations. There is a Tea processing unit at the top which was established during the british regime, and they still use the same original machinery. The track winding up Kolukkumalai is a bumpy one and it takes around one hour to reach the top. The evening drive along the mist covered elevated plantations, above the clouds, was refreshing.             Once at the top, where the Jeep stops, the view around will never disappoint the visitor. We had the Kolukumalai peak on one side, Munnar top station and the adjoining Kodai hils, plus Meesapulimala for our eye’s pleasure.              The tea factory is a beautiful old fashioned, three storied building, in the midst of the greenery and we walked down to it.                 They served us hot aromatic tea of different combination. After the tea, we were taken for the factory tour. I had been exposed to tea making process earlier, but this one stood apart for the fact that, apart from the crude machinery erected during the early 19^th century, the remaining part was still manual.        Spent around an hour, in and outside the factory and bought freshly prepared tea from their outlet. Got out by around 6 in the evening and returned to the base after the spine breaking return drive. Back at Munnar by 7.30 PM.

           This small post is just to bring it to the notice of ordinary Munnar visitors, that there are places easily accessible and less polluted, to spend half a day, apart from the regular Eravikulam – Mattupetty – Top station run. 

                       We were not planning to visit any regular tourist spots of Munnar and we thought of a different path, for our return journey to Trivandrum, , via Bodi- Kambam - Kumili - Mundakkayam - Pathanamthitta, as we had enough time. Off by 10 AM, via Chinnakanal, Devikulam and took a left turn from Pooppara. The hair pin curves start at Bodi Mettu, and the TN roads this side are well maintained, making the drive a pleasure.             After the descent took a right turn at Bodi , for Kambam – the left goes to Theni. There were many vine yards along the way, near Kambam, and we paid a visit to one.             Had a stock of fresh grapes and grape products from their store and proceeded to Kumili. At Kumili by 2 PM, had lunch and headed along KK road, in a hurry to reach home, as early as possible. 

Click on the stars to rate my blog