Palkulamedu – Muyalpaara

  Heavenly Hillock Duo

Locate

    Though Paalkulamedu was in the hit list for long, couldn’t reach up to it in earlier ventures to Cheruthoni. This time I was determined, despite deterrents, as Arun, a native of Chelachuvadu, the base of the hillock, offered necessary support. Left Govt. Guest House at Cheruthoni, early morning, and drove along Cheruthoni Ernakulam route. On reaching Chelachuvadu, met Subin, an experienced driver in the terrain, who later amazed us – read it as frightened – with his unmatched driving skill.

            It was just eight in a misty morning, as we boarded Subin’s 4WD vehicle. Deviated from Cheruthoni – Ernakulam road at Churuli and the initial stretch went through plantations. Ten minutes later, the road appeared to end in front of a mud wall and only on drawing close, another narrow track at about 120 degree, got into view. Subin had to shift to the reverse gear twice, to get the vehicle on the track and this went routine, in almost all the hairpin curves ahead. The track was just a green carpet many places, indicating   the lower frequency of vehicle traffic in this sector

        This time too, we had our six month old traveler – Nandu – with us and he seemed to enjoy the 4WD experience, as he started singing in his own language. By then the greenery embraced, lifting us to a totally new world – call it heaven. As usual, opted to walk at places where Jeep was sure to trail.

          As the jeep drew atop Paalkkulamedu, we had nothing else but the green hillocks all around, with occasional patches of shola woods.

   
         The ambience was so majestic and magical, that it never came into our thoughts, that it was still summer in our planes. Subin guided us into a wooded patch, at the midst of which there was a spring, with ice cold water gushing out and it never exhausts – we were told.

              On the other side of the patch, we could have a better view of the woods and mounts, bordering the districts of Idukki and Ernakulam.

                  On spotting dung scattered around, Subin told us about a Tusker in the region, who is reported to be friendly with human. Though we could sense his presence, we weren’t lucky enough to experience his hospitality.

      It was then, another distant grass hillock attracted my attention and got to know that its 'Muyalpaara', named before the abundance of hare in that region. My doubtful gesture ‘Shall we?’ was retorted with a loud ‘Why not?’, and we were back on the jeep, cruising ahead for Muyalpaara. Two turns ahead, the track condition forced us to insist a return, but Subin was determined. We, the helpless folk, had no other choice but to obey the commander, fearfully.

     The track condition was so bad that some one other than Subin wouldn't have tried it. At places the track was too narrow, with deep ravine by the side.

          By then we grew confidence on our chauffeur and people started enjoying the drive. Subin had to leave the vehicle, twice, to clear off rocks from the path, brought  along the flow from the upper hill. 

         At the last stretch, there wasn't even a track and the jeep went climbing the rocky terrain, on assumed paths. It came to a halt atop a huge flat rock, and the view around was awesome. 

            Aerial view of the village of ‘Mulakuvalli’, in the valley and never ending stretch of thick woods was what visible. 

            On directions, left the Jeep and climbed a bit down along the other side of the hillock, landed on another rocky plane and found Subin pointing south. Ran up to him and what else, the Idukki dam itself could be spotted, though too far away. 

Arrow points Idukki Dam

                       Hare droppings were found abundantly scattered enforcing the name evidently. 

     

               

                

                       Roamed around enjoying the views and wild berries, till noon and it was time to return to earth. Now we knew Subin – no worries – and enjoyed the heaven to earth journey, landing safely at Chelachuvadu, in another hour. Another dream destination has been conquered, with the bonus of Muyalpara, for which I am grateful to Subin.  

    

Kizhukaanam – The Hamlet in Harmony

 Locate

         It was Sajeevan, a native of Kattappana in Idukki, who proposed Kizhukaanam to us, while we were desperately searching for yet another less crowded destination. A brief description from him, who used to drive a service bus to this destination earlier, was sufficient to incline us with out a second thought. As usual two families – Sunils & mine – set out in my Verito, in the heavily raining morning of 30^th April 2012.

         Apart from regular travelers, we had a new member for this exploration – Nandu – who had just turned six months, on his debut adventure. Reached Peerumedu Govt. Guest house by noon, and settled there, deciding to continue with the expedition, next morning. Chose Parunthumpara to spent the evening, but mist stole the show.

      Next morning, drove along Kuttikkaanam - Kattappana road, picked Sajeevan near Kattappana, returned through the same track, took a right deviation at Parappu and another steep climb of about 8 kms, through Upputhara, to reach up to the small junction of Valakode. The track to Kizhukaanam, there after, may not favor a car and thus we got introduced to Babu of Kizhukanam, who is a jeep driver there. After a tasty lunch from ‘Hotel Akshay’ , the small eatery of the junction, boarded the jeep and headed for Kizhukanam 

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The tiny town of 'Valakodu'

        The hamlet of Kizhukaanam is surrounded by the woods of Idukki Wild life sanctuary and water storage of Idukki reservoir. The connection to the outer world is through private bus services, from Kattappana, though not that frequent. The earlier inhabitants of the place belong to Oorali and Ulladan tribes, who were relocated while the Idukki dam was constructed. Later, migrants from other parts joined them and now the population is a mixture. Livelihood being agriculture, inhabitants are not that happy on the visit of wild folk – mainly elephants and boars – to their farms. Still, all these years of co existence had taught them how to be in harmony and thus casualties from conflicts are seldom reported.

       The track to Kizhukanam, after the initial stretch, is just a mud road, which proved right, our decision to opt the jeep.  Buses from Kattappana ply four times a day, which is the normal mode of connectivity between Kizhukaanam and the outer world.

           A left deviation, from the main track connecting Valakode and Kizhukaanam, and a steep climb, that only a 4WD can do, for about two kms , through Kollathikaavu, ended at ‘Chokkan’. Though strangely named, the beauty of elevated grass lands, which gently flows down to the dead end of the water storage of the reservoir, may not let one return that soon.

           Left the kids wandering with Sajeevan, and chose a flat rock, to settle down and capture the scenery. Geographically Chockan is southern end of the peninsula, formed in the midst of the reservoir. Babu knew that we may not return, if not reminded and he offered a drive through the inhabited sector.

   Thus we went past Kizhukanam junction, which hosts a ration shop and a small store, and drove up to the tribal school at Kannampadi.

                 The building, beautifully tucked in the valley of towering grass hillocks, would never deter a blooming mind and I would have loved learning, in such premises.

    Continued the drive, along the border lines, separating the hamlet and the woods and I called a break at the grazing fields.

                 The grazing fields of Kizhukaanam, being at the fag end of the reservoir, mesmerize with its thick green cover and kids may hesitate to return, if you let them free. And elders may not be exceptions.

      And after all these, it may not be fair if there isn’t a clean water source for a wash up, or even for a dip. And Kizhukaanam offers that too – Kallattupaara falls.

           Rightly located, just about 100 metres, from the return track, the beauty may go unnoticed, as thick foliage hides it away, from an unaware visitor. After the plunge, the gentle flow crosses the track, and joins the green fields – a view, no camera shall miss.

               The last bus to Kizhukanam, then passed through the woods, and it was time to return, for we had to reach Cheruthoni, before it’s too dark.

      A bus waiting shelter by the way side wore an adorable look and thought of having it here for you

         Had tea at ‘Akshay’, along with a strange snack by name ‘Vadi’, and boarded our vehicle, for the onward journey.

    

            Being the debut adventure, our young travel mate, Nandu, may not recall these events while he grows up. But I’m sure that he would admire his parents – Sunil & Renchi – for filling his cute little eyes with such amazing wonders of nature, before the filth of our world reflect on it.

    And it wasn't that far. Though light was fading, the ‘kill’ by the wayside, didn't go missed, veiling all the good feelings, so far accrued. 

            Parting Shot........In all sense...

Thooval Mala - The Green Feathered Hillock

        The hillocks to the right of the Ghat road that leads to Achankovil, from Senkotta, had caught attention in an earlier expedition, through that sector, and it was a recent info that the stretch is named Thooval Mala. This mountain range draws the border line between Tamil Nadu and Kerala, with thickly wooded valleys and plays the mother role of many a stream, which flow down either sides, benefitting TN and Kerala. Though part of Kerala, better access to the sector is through Senkotta of TN, if not for the jungle track through Mullumala, near Punalur. And it is believed that there was a bridle path, through this heavily wooded sector, to Sabarimala, used by pilgrims in the good old age.

         Vehicle can take you up to Kottavasal Forest check post, from where the trek starts. Opted the route through Senkottah and the four member team landed at Kottavasal, in a pleasant morning. While gearing for the trek, the lone guard at the post shared his helplessness in assisting us and we decided to guide ourselves. Ten minute’s climb through a shrubby patch took us to the base of a grass hill, and we proceeded wading through. 

                   Wind assumed might as we hiked and its whistle was the lone wave audible. In another half an hour we were up the hill and the view ahead was inviting. Another fold of grassy mount of double the elevation stood ahead, with a reed patch up to half the height, and a deep ravine on the visible side. 

           Now the challenge was two sided – To clear the reed patch without deviating to the ravine side and to keep away from elephants, whose presence was evident from dung scattered all over.

             Spent a while, analyzing the geography, and confidently decided the direction to follow, as we could see reed jungle and the grass hill atop it, right ahead. Entered the patch, hiked for about 20 minutes and we had the intuition that we are not on the right path. Stopped hiking and decided to deviate to right as we knew the ravine is to the left. Luckily cleared the reeds in another twenty minutes and the grass hill opened before us, though our landing was not exactly where we had planned to.

               

          Took some rest, quenched thirst and went ahead with the climb, through thick grass growth. Once atop, you have the planes of Tamil Nadu, green paddy fields and the Mekkara reservoir, resembling a pond, to the east.

      Its even more elevated grass hills to the north and the thick woods of Achankovil range, to the west. Sat on rocks, not to be carried away by the mighty wind, simply looking around, until it started drizzling. 

      Woke up to the reality that its time for the down climb. It wasn’t that tedious as we had marked our way, while up.

          Got back to the vehicle and drove about 6 kms ahead for ‘Kumbavurutti’ falls. Parked the vehicle by the track side and a brisk walk of 15 minutes through the cleared track, took us to the plunge.

            Roamed around a while and headed for the famous jungle shrine ‘Achankovil Ayyappa Temple’, about 8 kms further ahead.  

             Then the debate was on the return path, and the decision was to drive ahead along the jungle track through Mullumala, which leads to Alimukku, near Punalur. It took about 3 hours for our tiny vehicle to clear the 30 km stretch and it was a difficult task behind the wheels. Still that was a memorable drive, though not feather light.

 This article was published in May 2012 edition of 'Destination Kerala'